166 Van Cleef & Arpels Very rare and desirable pair of Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond Pendant-Earclips, former property of Frank and Barbara Sinatra collection, signed Van Cleef & Arpels

Estimate: € 400,000 –⁠ 600,000

Designed as stylized wings pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, suspending detachable drop-shaped pendant mystery-set with calibré-cut rubies, capped by round diamonds. Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered N.Y. 46933. Weight: 40.6 g
The present earrings, former property of the celebrated collection of Barbara and Frank Sinatra, showcase the pinnacle of mystery setting. The Sinatras were aficionados of mystery set jewels, also purchasing a similar bracelet and butterfly brooch, and Barbara wore this pair frequently. Blending together nearly a century of jewelry-making tradition with legends of Hollywood glamour, these earrings can truly be labeled icons. Mystery Set refers to the unique technique associated with Van Cleef & Arpels ever since the Maison patented this dazzling invention in 1933. It consists of setting stones in such a way that no prongs are visible. The technique is so intricate that producing a single clip takes no less than 300 hours’ work. Once complete, the gems appear to be entirely free-standing. Because of the complexity of the process, Mystery Set pieces are extremely rare: the Maison produces no more than a few of them each year, explaining that these pieces are highly desirable. (Source: innovation the Mystery Set™, Van Cleef & Arpels)