28 Breguet A very rare and attractive, Type XX military aviator’s flyback chronograph wristwatch in steel, with black dial

Estimate: Fr. 8'000 –⁠ 16'000

The Breguet Type XX is one of the most historically significant military chronographs, originally commissioned by the French Air Force in the 1950s for their pilots. The reference 5101, the first model delivered, was built for precision and durability, featuring a Valjoux 720. Early versions came with unsigned dials and a distinctive onion crown to facilitate operation while wearing gloves. Later iterations, like this remarkable example, bear the Breguet signature on the dial, adding an element of refinement to the utilitarian design. The stainless steel case, measuring 38.5mm in diameter, exudes a rugged yet elegant presence, complemented by the bidirectional rotating bezel marked with dot and Arabic numerals for precise time tracking. The deep black dial is intact, the luminescent Arabic numerals and hands retain a nice patina, while the three registers layout ensures optimal legibility. The 30-minute chronograph, featuring a flyback function, allows pilots to reset and restart timing instantly, a crucial feature for aviation missions. The case back of some models carries military engravings confirming their official use, with many having their end-of-warranty markings from 1964. This particular watch not assigned for a military purpose but most probably for a civilian person remains in exceptional original condition, making it a prized acquisition for collectors of military chronographs and a true representation of Breguet’s legacy in aviation watchmaking.