274 Cartier Extremely Rare and Important, Helm Shape, Wristwatch in Platinum, Baguette Diamond-set Hour Index and Platinum Bracelet, With Box, Published in Osvaldo Patrizzi book “White Cartier Bianco”

Estimate: € 250,000 –⁠ 500,000

Sold € 357,500

Model: Helm
Case Material: Platinum and Diamonds
Bracelet Material: Platinum
Year: 1951
Movement: Manual
Case N°: 37065
Movement N°: 444824
Dimensions: 31 mm
Signed: Dial, Movement and Case
Accessories: Box
Literature: This specific watch is published in Osvaldo Patrizzi book "White Cartier Bianco" at page 48 - 49

In the late 1940s, the world of wristwatches witnessed a pivotal shift as round timepieces began to overshadow the Art Deco-inspired form watches that had dominated the preceding decades. Cartier, a trailblazer in luxury watchmaking, capitalized on this trend by crafting extraordinary timepieces that would etch a permanent mark on horological history. Among these post-war innovations was a remarkable wristwatch featuring a distinctive circular bezel, secured by circular fixtures, which inspired its nickname, the "Helm Watch." Also known by the French term "Gouvernail," meaning rudder, and affectionately called "Timone" by Italian collectors, this unique timepiece captured the essence of a ship's rudder, infusing a nautical charm into its already distinctive design. The rarity and allure of the Helm Watch are further enhanced by its platinum construction and the exquisite addition of diamond baguette indexes on the case, making the present lot a true jewel among Helm watches and arguably one of the most significant and fascinating examples to grace the auction scene in recent years, testament to Cartier's exceptional craftsmanship and aesthetic vision. Throughout the 1940s and 1950s, Helm watches were produced in various designs and sizes, including both wristwatches and pocket watches, albeit always in extremely limited quantities. Predominantly, Helm watches were fashioned in yellow gold, rendering the platinum variant exceedingly rare and highly coveted. Further research reveals that only a few Cartier Helm platinum watches from the 1940s and 1950s are known to exist, with the timepiece in question believed to be one of merely four featuring diamond hour markers from that period. Manufactured in 1951, the exceptional craftsmanship of this watch is evident in every detail—from the solid platinum tile bracelet to the iconic Vendome lugs, from the satin-finish silvered dial to the meticulously set diamonds marking the hours, with a notable pair of baguettes at twelve o'clock. Powered by a manual European Watch & Clock movement and preserved in remarkable condition within a prestigious collection for many years, this Helm not only exemplifies Cartier's innovative design and flair but also embodies the brand's enduring legacy of creating timeless and prestigious timepieces. Today, this watch stands as one of the most prestigious and captivating vintage designs on the market, a true collector's dream that encapsulates the glamour of a bygone era and ranks among the rarest timepieces to ever emerge. Additionally, this specific watch is featured in Osvaldo Patrizzi's book "White Cartier Bianco" on pages 48–49, further solidifying its significance and allure.