41 Breguet A superb, rare and very well preserved perpetual calendar chronograph moonphase wristwatch in yellow gold, reference 3617

Estimate: CHF 40,000 –⁠ 80,000

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ModelPerpetual Calendar
Reference3617BA
Case MaterialYellow gold
Bracelet MaterialLeather strap
YearCirca 1990s
MovementManual, cal. 2310, 21 jewels
Case N°3921F
Movement N°1'284
Dimensions38mm Diameter
SignedCase, dial and movement

Unveiled in the early 1990s, Breguet’s reference 3617 stands as a remarkable synthesis of two of haute horology’s most venerated complications: the perpetual calendar and the chronograph. Encased in an elegant, classically proportioned yellow gold case, an execution of exceptional rarity, this timepiece exemplifies Breguet’s unparalleled ability to marry mechanical sophistication with timeless design. The dial is nothing short of a guilloché masterpiece. At its center, a traditional clous de Paris motif provides a rich, tactile backdrop, while the chronograph subdials are distinguished by a refined basket-weave pattern. Framing the moon phase display at six o’clock, a delicate wave engraving adds a poetic flourish, imbuing the dial with remarkable visual texture and depth. The calendar indications are seamlessly woven into this landscape: the day at nine o’clock, the date at three, and the month and leap year cycle elegantly placed at twelve—all rendered with Breguet’s characteristic balance and restraint. Powering this mechanical opus is none other than the legendary manually wound Lemania Calibre 2310, revered by collectors and watchmakers alike. Its storied lineage includes powering such icons as the Patek Philippe reference 3970, a testament to its precision, reliability, and horological prestige. Yet what truly elevates this example is its extraordinarily rare yellow gold case, a seldom-seen configuration that renders this reference even more desirable to collectors. With its harmonious proportions, exquisite detailing, and historically significant movement, the reference 3617 represents a pinnacle of Breguet’s modern-era craftsmanship—where technical gravitas meets refined artistry in perfect symphony.

Condition Report

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Auction Preview GENEVA
Eternity Gallery, Place de Longemalle 19
9 – 10 May, from 10 AM to 7 PM

LUGANO
Villa Principe Leopoldo
3 June – from 2 PM to 8 PM
4 June – from 10 AM to 8 PM
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