44 Breguet A very fine and extremely charming, Cinesino, day-date moonphase automatic wristwatch, in white gold with guilloché silver dial, and skeletonized caseback, reference 3337

Estimate: CHF 10,000 –⁠ 20,000

Breguet’s renaissance in the 1970s marked a defining chapter in modern watchmaking. Under the visionary leadership of the Chaumet brothers, the storied maison set its sights on reclaiming the grandeur of its legacy, by relocating production from France to the Vallée de Joux—Switzerland, where tradition and innovation flourish side by side. To lead this revival, they turned to Daniel Roth, a rising star already distinguished by his work at Audemars Piguet. But Roth wasn’t content with mere homage. He immersed himself in Breguet’s archives, mastering the brand’s historic techniques before reinterpreting them with his own meticulous sensibility. The reference 3337 presented here is a historic representation of that revival, dating to the early 1990s. Subtle cues reveal its heritage: an open caseback, creamy guilloché dial, and the absence of a reference number on the caseback—all indicative of early production. A particularly charming touch is the day display, rendered in Italian, framed against a warm yellow gold backdrop that harmonizes beautifully with the case. Notably, the dial bears only the word “Swiss” at six o’clock—an early trait later replaced with the phrase “Swiss Guilloché Main.” Every detail is a love letter to Breguet’s past, from the hand-turned guilloché dial and signature blued hands to the finely fluted, coin-edge case. Roth’s reverent study of Breguet’s 19th-century pocket watches is evident in the balanced yet distinctive layout, with day and date apertures positioned at 10 and 2, adding a refined asymmetry to the classical dial. Through the exhibition caseback, one finds the Caliber 502—a beautifully finished movement based on the renowned Frédéric Piguet Caliber 71. A fitting movement for a watch that so seamlessly bridges Breguet’s storied past with the renaissance of its modern identity.