77 Rolex A very well preserved and historically important, Barilotto, oyster antimagnetic chronograph wristwatch, in steel, salmon dial, Gay Freres grain de riz bracelet, reference 3525

Estimate: CHF 40,000 –⁠ 80,000

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ModelBarilotto
Reference3525
Case MaterialStainless Steel
Bracelet MaterialStainless steel Rolex bracelet, approximate length 195mm
Year1942
MovementManual, cal. 13”, 17 jewels
Case N°181'177
Dimensions35mm Diameter
SignedCase, dial and movement

The Rolex reference 3525, affectionately known as the "Barilotto" due to its barrel-shaped case, holds a significant place in horological history as the first Rolex chronograph to feature the brand's signature Oyster case. Produced primarily during the 1930s and 1940s, this model was revolutionary for its time, combining Rolex’s pioneering waterproof technology with a chronograph complication, a rare feat in that era. The reference 3525 was produced in three distinct batches, with serial numbers clustering around 40'xxx-50'xxx for the first, mid-100'000 for the second, and mid-300'000 for the third. This particular example, dated circa 1942, belongs to the second generation, identifiable by its serial number stamped on the case back—a detail that later transitioned to between the lugs in subsequent productions. Crafted in stainless steel, this watch exudes utilitarian elegance, enhanced by its stunning salmon-colored dial, which adds a warm, vintage charm. The dial features two symmetrical sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock, used for the chronograph’s elapsed time functions, while slender, steel hands elegantly sweep across the display. The outermost scale features a tachymeter for measuring speed over distance, and just inside it, a telemeter scale designed for calculating distance based on the speed of sound, an especially useful feature in the mid-20th century. The central chronograph seconds hand is distinguished by its vivid red color, providing a striking contrast against the soft salmon background. The "Rolex Oyster Chronographe" inscription, paired with "Anti-Magnetic" at the lower half of the dial, underscores the technical sophistication of this model. Flanked by two pushers, the robust crown is a testament to the watch’s waterproof capabilities, a hallmark of the Oyster case. With its rich historical significance, elegant design, and technical ingenuity, the Rolex 3525 "Barilotto" remains an iconic collector’s piece that embodies the pioneering spirit of Rolex during a transformative era in watchmaking history.

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Auction Preview GENEVA
Eternity Gallery, Place de Longemalle 19
9 – 10 May, from 10 AM to 7 PM

LUGANO
Villa Principe Leopoldo
3 June – from 2 PM to 8 PM
4 June – from 10 AM to 8 PM
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