154 Tourneau An elegant and highly fascinating, Complete Calendar moon phase, automatic chronograph wristwatch in pink gold, with black dial and box.

Estimate: € 4.000 –⁠ 8.000

NO RESERVE

In the pantheon of great chronograph calibers, few movements have left a mark as indelible as the Zenith El Primero. Born at the close of the 1960s as one of the first fully integrated automatic chronographs, the El Primero not only survived the Swiss quartz crisis—it became a cornerstone of horological history. While many are familiar with its adoption by Ebel and, most famously, Rolex for the Daytona ref. 16520, fewer know of the quietly produced yet highly collectible El Primero-based powered creations from Oscar Waldan. Among these was a small series produced in collaboration with the legendary American retailer Tourneau, then under the direction of Bob Wexler. These pieces were commissioned in the 1990s and early 2000s, crafted in limited numbers and offered exclusively through Tourneau’s flagship store on 57th Street in New York. The present example, case number 306, is housed in solid 18K pink gold and remains accompanied by its original Tourneau-signed box. Its commanding black dial is rich with detail: Arabic numerals, three chronograph registers, and calendar windows for day, date, and month—all arranged with remarkable legibility. The red-tipped chronograph seconds hand and outer tachymeter scale add further vintage charm and instrument-like functionality. The case remains sharp, with well-preserved lines and hallmarking consistent with the Tourneau series—featuring vertically stacked “18K” and case number engravings on the back. For collectors who value movement pedigree, under-the-radar provenance, and American horological history, this Tourneau is a compelling time capsule from a fascinating chapter of post-quartz Swiss watchmaking.

Condition Report

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