205 Cartier An extremely rare and attractive, Helm Shape, manual wristwatch in yellow gold, with Breguet numerals and presentation box.

Estimate: € 60.000 –⁠ 120.000

Throughout the 20th century, Cartier built its legacy not merely by adorning wrists with elegance, but by boldly redefining the very shape of the wristwatch itself. From the asymmetry of the Crash to the pure geometry of the Tank, Cartier has never shied away from turning convention on its head in pursuit of timeless design. The Maison’s daring approach to case architecture has long captured the imagination of tastemakers and collectors alike, establishing Cartier as both a jeweller of royalty and a watchmaker of vision. In this spirit of sculptural creativity came the “Timone,” a striking and lesser-known design that echoes the aesthetic vocabulary of Cartier’s golden age of form watches, while adding its own distinctly modern flair. The present example, cased in 18K yellow gold, exemplifies the bold harmony and refined curvature that define the Timone. Its elliptical, almost biomorphic case recalls the nautical inspiration behind the model—timone meaning “helm” or “rudder” in Italian—imparting a sense of movement and purpose. The rich gold case is beautifully contrasted by Cartier’s signature blued steel hands, while the elegant proportions ensure wearability across contexts. For the collector drawn to Cartier’s more esoteric and sculptural designs, the Timone is an alluring and quietly sophisticated treasure from the Maison’s creative catalogue.