226 Rolex An early, well preserved and highly striking, GMT Master, automatic wristwatch in steel, with bakelite bezel and red signature, reference 6542.

Estimate: € 120.000 –⁠ 240.000

In the early 1950s, as transatlantic air travel expanded, Pan American World Airways commissioned Rolex to create a timepiece capable of displaying two time zones simultaneously. The result was the GMT-Master reference 6542, introduced in 1954: a model that would become a cornerstone of 20th-century tool watch design. Initially powered by the caliber 1036, and later the 1065 and 1066, the GMT-Master featured a 24-hour hand and a rotating bezel marked from 0 to 24, allowing intuitive tracking of a second time zone. Its distinctive red and blue Bakelite bezel quickly became one of Rolex’s most recognizable design elements, and a hallmark among vintage collectors. The example offered here is exceptional for its extremely rare glossy black dial bearing the “GMT-MASTER” designation printed entirely in red, a configuration typical of very early variants, of which fewer than a handful are known. This feature alone places it among the most coveted variants of the reference. Adding to its appeal is the iconic Bakelite bezel insert with vivid coloration, and a well-preserved case with defined bevels and strong proportions. The caseback and big logo bracelet clasp are similarly crisp, reinforcing the watch’s remarkable condition. Originally built for a select group of Pan Am pilots, this reference 6542 —thanks to its rarity and provenance— has entered a new realm: a museum-worthy piece for the most serious collectors of Rolex history.