249 Rolex An exceedingly rare, historically important, and exceptionally preserved, Prototype, Day-Date automatic wristwatch in steel, with roman numerals dial and french date disk.

Estimate: € 20.000 –⁠ 40.000

• Model Day Date
• Year Circa 1974
• Case Material Stainless steel
• Bracelet Material Leather strap
• Movement Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels
• Movement Number 0'004'547
• Dimension 36mm Diameter
• Signed Case, dial and movement
• Literature This specific watch is published in: John Goldberger Book “100 Superlative Rolex Watches” at page 162.A similar watch was previously sold in Phillips "THE GENEVA WATCH AUCTION: EIGHT" auction November 11th 2018, as lot 25 for CHF 168,750.

When Rolex introduced the Day-Date in 1956, it marked a bold departure from the brand’s deeply entrenched identity as a maker of rugged, professional timepieces. Known by then for perfecting the waterproof Oyster case and pioneering self-winding movements, Rolex was admired for its utility — not for opulence. The launch of the Datejust in 1945 first began to blend precision with elegance, but it was the Day-Date that firmly positioned the brand within the sphere of high-end horology. More than just a watch, it became a symbol — the timepiece of choice for world leaders, visionaries, and cultural icons alike. And crucially, Rolex made an uncompromising statement: the Day-Date would be produced only in precious metals. Steel was strictly off-limits — a boundary that has been zealously maintained for over six decades.

Yet within Rolex’s vast archives and history of experimentation, a few whispers of contradiction remain. Exceptionally rare Day-Date watches in stainless steel have surfaced — prototype or experimental pieces, unknown to most, and unnumbered, likely never intended for public sale. Among them is the present watch, movement no. 0004547, a reference that gained scholarly recognition when it was featured in John Goldberger’s canonical “100 Superlative Rolex Watches”. Other related examples — all lacking case numbers and bearing unique movement codes — have emerged over the years, each deepening the intrigue. In the ever-evolving landscape of collectible horology, where desirability hinges on both rarity and relevance, this watch stands firmly at the intersection of both. In an era where sport-influenced models dominate demand due to their versatility and contemporary appeal, the present piece ascends to an entirely different level — one worthy of “grail” designation. The existence of only four known examples would be considered astonishingly scarce by any measure, but in the context of Rolex — a manufacturer renowned for consistent and sizeable production — such scarcity borders on the surreal.

Yet beyond the raw numbers lies a more profound fascination: this is a watch that defies its own genesis. It contradicts the foundational principles Rolex itself set — namely, that the Day-Date would be reserved exclusively for precious metals. To possess this watch is to hold in one’s hands a deliberate anomaly, a quiet rebellion in steel that is as elegant and contemporary as it is historically subversive. It is, without exaggeration, one of the most thought-provoking and historically rich Day-Date watches ever made — and arguably among the most conceptually riveting timepieces ever produced by the Crown.

Former property of the John Golberger's collection.