254 Patek Philippe A highly attractive and elegant, Calatrava, automatic wristwatch in yellow gold, with small seconds, “first-series” enamel dial, reference 2526.

Estimate: € 30.000 –⁠ 60.000

Few time-only wristwatches so perfectly encapsulate the golden age of Swiss watchmaking as the Patek Philippe reference 2526. Introduced in 1953, it was the brand’s first automatic wristwatch, fitted with the groundbreaking caliber 12-600 AT—a movement celebrated not only for its technical merit but also for its breathtaking architecture and finishing, still admired by connoisseurs to this day. At 35.5mm in diameter, the elegantly proportioned case—manufactured by Atelier Réunis (Baumgartner)—was considered oversized at the time, yet today feels effortlessly modern. The reference was offered in yellow, pink, and white gold, as well as platinum, and is now regarded as one of the most important automatic wristwatches ever made. Patek Philippe’s decision to wait patiently for Rolex’s patent on the full-rotor automatic winding system to expire—rather than rush a compromise solution—allowed them to channel decades of research into a movement that remains a benchmark of refinement. The present example is the most desirable “first series” with a rich, off-white enamel dial, details that lend depth and tactile beauty to an already iconic design. With its exceptional condition, timeless proportions, and deep mechanical pedigree, this reference 2526 is a cornerstone of post-war haute horlogerie and a quintessential trophy for the refined collector.