80 Rolex An attractive and well-preserved, Explorer II, automatic wristwatch in steel, with ivory dial, 24-hour hand, guarantee and presentation box, reference 16550.

Estimate: € 10.000 –⁠ 20.000

Among Rolex’s most unexpected and quietly charismatic creations, the Explorer II reference 16550 stands at a unique crossroads, marking both an evolution in purpose and the birth of an icon. Introduced in the mid-1980s, this reference was the first Explorer II to feature a white dial, sapphire crystal, and the new caliber 3085. But what began as a technical update soon transformed into one of the most visually beguiling anomalies in Rolex’s modern production. What you see here is one of the early examples made of Explorer II, distinguished by one of the most desirable natural dial transformations in contemporary collecting: the fabled "ivory" patina. Caused by a defect in the original paint formulation, this transformation was never intended by Rolex. And yet, it gave birth to one of the most poetic expressions of time’s passage—a warm, creamy hue unlike any other, paired with a buttery, aged tritium luminous. This example, born circa 1987, displays all the hallmarks of the early production: white gold-ringed hour markers, very rare "t swiss < 25 t" configuration and most significantly, the ivory transformation. Offered here in outstanding condition it is further elevated by its extraordinary completeness: box, punched warranty, calendar, and Rolex Certified Pre-Owned packaging and documents.