155 Audemars Piguet A very rare, attractive and elegant, carré-shaped manual wristwatch in yellow and white gold, with blue sapphire index bezel.
Estimate: € 25.000 – 50.000
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- Model Carrée
- Year 1953
- Case Material 18K yellow gold, white gold and sapphires
- Case Number 2'100
- Bracelet Material Leather strap
- Movement Manual, 18 jewels
- Movement Number 61'164
- Dimension 24mm width x 30mm length
- Signed Case, dial and movement
- Accessories Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives confirming the production of the present timepiece on 13th October 1953.
The 1950s represented a fascinating transition in wristwatch design. The austerity of the war years had given way to renewed optimism, technical refinement and a subtle embrace of decorative expression. While round cases continued to dominate production, the decade also witnessed the confident return of geometric forms, carré, rectangular and tonneau, often interpreted with architectural precision and restrained elegance. Watches of this period were slim, thoughtfully proportioned and frequently characterised by contrasting materials, applied markers and discreet yet sophisticated details. The present Audemars Piguet embodies that spirit perfectly. Executed in yellow and white gold, this striking carré-shaped wristwatch reflects the decade’s fascination with clean geometry balanced by refined ornamentation. The casemaker, identified by the key number 8, is none other than François Markowski — a highly regarded maker of exceptional cases for a number of distinguished brands. It is also Markowski who crafted the case of the Patek Philippe Carré, of which we are delighted to present a particularly charming example in this very auction. The square case, with its sharp lines and solid presence, speaks to mid-century modern aesthetics, confident, structured and quietly luxurious. Most remarkable is the bezel construction. Framed in white gold, it is set with deep blue sapphire indexes that radiate outward in bold, sculptural segments. In the 1950s, the use of coloured gemstones in masculine wristwatches was both daring and refined, never excessive, but deliberately placed to create visual rhythm. Carré watches of the 1950s were often designed for clients seeking distinction beyond conventional round cases. They represented modernity without flamboyance, a statement of taste rather than ostentation. The combination of two-tone gold and gemstone-set detailing further aligns this piece with the era’s refined experimentation, when leading manufactures explored subtle luxury through material interplay rather than complication alone.
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