188 Rolex A charming and gorgeous, Datejust, automatic wristwatch in yellow gold, with malachite dial, textured brick-link bracelet,original guarantee and box, reference 1601.

Estimate: € 30.000 –⁠ 60.000

• Model Datejust
• Year Circa 1972
• Reference 1601
• Case Material 18K yellow gold
• Case Number 3'113'999
• Bracelet Material 18K yellow gold Rolex bracelet, approximate length 190mm
• Movement Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
• Dimension 36mm Diameter
• Signed Case, dial and movement
• Accessories Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated May 21th 1974 and stamped Eldorado Watch Co LTD, leather wallet, booklets, hang tag and fitted presentation box.

Malachite has fascinated civilizations for millennia. Prized since antiquity for its intense green color and naturally layered bands, it was used in jewelry, objets d’art and even as pigment during the Renaissance. Each slice reveals a landscape of shifting lines and tonal depth, no two ever identical.
In the early 1970s, Rolex elevated this ancient ornamental stone into the realm of high watchmaking. Reference 1601 with malachite dial stands among the most charismatic and unconventional executions of the Datejust. Rather than a traditional metal dial, Rolex carefully selected and cut thin sections of malachite, preserving the harmony of the banding while ensuring structural integrity. The result is a dial that feels alive: concentric waves of green ranging from deep forest to lighter emerald tones, shifting subtly with the light.
This 1972 example pairs the vivid stone dial with an 18k yellow gold case and the classic fluted bezel, framing the mineral canvas with unmistakable Rolex architecture. The D’Agosto brick-link bracelet further enhances the watch’s presence, adding texture and weight while remaining period-correct and visually coherent. By the 1970s, the Datejust had already become a global symbol of discreet success; fitted with a hardstone dial, however, it transformed into something far rarer and more expressive.
Hardstone dials were produced in limited quantities due to the difficulty of manufacturing and the fragility of the material.
This piece captures a moment when Rolex combined technical rigor with bold aesthetic experimentation. It is at once classical in form and exotic in execution, an object that bridges geology, craftsmanship and horology. For the collector seeking a Datejust that stands apart from the conventional, a malachite 1601 offers individuality, period charm and enduring visual impact.