215 Rolex A fine and attractive, Padellone, triple calendar moon phases, automatic wristwatch in yellow gold, with argentè dial, reference 8171.

Estimate: € 70.000 –⁠ 140.000

• Model Padellone
• Year Circa 1950s
• Reference 8171
• Case Material 18K yellow gold
• Case Number Inner caseback engraved 574
• Bracelet Material Leather strap
• Movement Automatic, cal. 10’’ ½, 18 jewels
• Dimension 38mm Diameter
• Signed Case, dial and movement

If the 6062 represents Rolex’s poetic side within an Oyster case, the reference 8171 is its unapologetic, grand gesture.
Produced between 1949 and 1952, with a small later run in the 1960s, the 8171 is one of only two Rolex references ever fitted with a moon phase and triple calendar. Unlike its waterproof sibling, it was housed in a snap-back case rather than a screw-down Oyster construction. The result was a broader, more expansive canvas for the dial, one that earned it the affectionate Italian nickname “Padellone”, the “frying pan,” in reference to its generous proportions.
And generous it is. For its time, the diameter was daring. Today, it feels perfectly at ease, balanced, elegant, and surprisingly modern on the wrist. It is a reminder that boldness in watchmaking did not begin in the 21st century.
The present example, cased in 18k yellow gold, displays the kind of presence collectors quietly hope for. The lugs remain nice and well defined, with a visible step between lug and case band, an architectural detail too often softened by time.
The argenté dial, manufactured by Stern Frères, is where the magic unfolds. A soft, even patina frames the dial like a halo of age and authenticity. The outer date track, rendered in vivid blue, encircles the composition and echoes the rich blue of the moon phase disc at 6 o’clock. The arrow-tipped hand sweeps the calendar with elegance, while applied yellow-gold indexes and sharp dauphine hands catch the light in quiet flashes.
The moon anchors the display. It is both complication and decoration, astronomy and artistry.
The 8171 is emblematic of a brief chapter when Rolex explored high complications with fearless creativity. Vintage in origin, strikingly contemporary in feel, the Padellone remains one of those watches that does not simply enhance a collection, it defines it.