90 Bulgari A very elegant and precious, Serpenti, wristwatch in yellow and white gold, with tiger eye dial and Tubogas bracelet, retailed by Gerald Genta.
Estimate: € 25.000 – 50.000
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- Model Tubogas
- Year Circa 1970s
- Reference G1164-7
- Case Material 18K yellow gold and white gold
- Case Number Inner caseback engraved 89
- Bracelet Material 18K yellow gold Bulgari bracelet, approxiamte length 140mm
- Movement Automatic, 17 jewels
- Dimension 22mm Diameter
- Signed Case, dial and movement
Few creations capture the sensuality of Italian design and the virtuosity of gold craftsmanship quite like the Serpenti. Introduced in the late 1940s, the model quickly became an icon of Bulgari, celebrated for its unmistakable Tubogas bracelet, an ingenious construction inspired by industrial gas pipes, yet transformed into a fluid, seamless coil of precious metal. Entirely devoid of soldering, the Tubogas technique requires extraordinary skill, resulting in a bracelet that wraps around the wrist with both flexibility and sculptural presence, evoking the sinuous movement of a serpent.
The present example elevates this already iconic design to an altogether more refined and desirable level. Crafted in yellow and white gold, its warm tones are beautifully enhanced by the rich, organic character of its tiger’s eye dial. Dials of this kind were produced in extremely limited numbers, as the use of natural stone, each piece unique in pattern and tone, introduced a level of unpredictability that only the most exclusive creations could justify. The result is mesmerizing: a dial that plays with light, shifting between golden reflections and deep, earthy striations, giving each glance a different expression.
Adding yet another layer of distinction, this watch was retailed by Gerald Genta and fitted with a Genta-signed case and movement. At a time when Genta was redefining the aesthetics of modern watchmaking, his involvement lends this piece an added dimension of collectability and historical importance.
Preserved in excellent condition, the case retains its voluptuous curves and crisp definition, while the Tubogas bracelet remains tight, supple, and beautifully articulated. The harmonious interplay between the dual gold tones, the architectural bracelet, and the hypnotic tiger’s eye dial results in a watch that transcends mere timekeeping, becoming instead a piece of wearable art.
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