96 Breguet A superb, rare and very well preserved perpetual calendar moon phases manual chronograph wristwatch in yellow gold, reference 3617.
Estimate: € 40.000 – 80.000
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- Model Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
- Year Circa 1990s
- Reference 3617BA
- Case Material 18K yellow gold
- Case Number 3921F
- Bracelet Material Leather strap
- Movement Manual, cal. 2310, 21 jewels
- Movement Number 1'284
- Dimension 38mm Diameter
- Signed Case, dial and movement
With its unmistakably classical bearing and quietly formidable mechanics, Breguet’s reference 3617 stands as one of the great modern expressions of haute horlogerie. Conceived in the early 1990s, it unites two of watchmaking’s most revered complications, the perpetual calendar and the chronograph, within a case of balanced, almost architectural proportion.
The dial is a study in Breguet’s decorative mastery. A finely executed clous de Paris guilloché anchors the center, while the chronograph registers are rendered in a contrasting basket-weave pattern, creating subtle visual depth. The moon-phase at six o’clock, framed by a gently engraved wave motif, introduces a poetic counterpoint to the disciplined geometry of the calendar displays, which are distributed with trademark clarity across the dial.
At the heart of the watch beats the legendary Lemania calibre 2310, a movement whose pedigree places it among the most celebrated chronograph ébauches ever produced. Extensively finished and adapted by Breguet to incorporate the perpetual calendar, it delivers both mechanical gravitas and tactile elegance. In this rare yellow-gold guise, the reference 3617 reveals itself as a refined, deeply collectible statement of Breguet’s enduring vision.
Condition Report
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