88 Rolex A charming and collectible, Explorer II, automatic wristwatch in steel, with 24-hour hand and "rail" ivory dial, reference 16550.
Estimate: Fr. 8'000 – 16'000
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- Model Explorer II
- Year Circa 1985
- Reference 16550
- Case Material Stainless steel
- Case Number 8'881'745
- Bracelet Material Stainless steel Rolex bracelet, approximate length 190mm
- Movement Automatic, cal. 3085, 27 jewels
- Dimension 40mm Diameter
- Signed Case, dial and movement
The Rolex reference 16550 is often described as a transitional model, but that definition barely does it justice. Produced for only a few years in the mid-1980s, it represents the moment when the Explorer II model stepped out of its purely utilitarian roots and into a more technically advanced era. It introduced the sapphire crystal to the line and, more importantly, the caliber 3085 with independently adjustable 24-hour hand, transforming the watch into a practical dual-time companion rather than simply a fixed 24-hour display. The example offered here dates to the beginning of that production run and belongs to a small, much-discussed group among collectors. Its dial, originally bright white, has developed over time into a warm ivory tone due to an early paint formulation that aged unpredictably. This was never an intended effect, and Rolex quickly corrected the issue. As a result, surviving examples with this creamy hue are not only attractive but historically specific to a narrow window of production. Each one evolves differently; no two are identical. Adding further interest is the so-called “rail” configuration, where the dial text above 6 o’clock aligns in a straight vertical line, an aesthetic detail appreciated by seasoned collectors. The tritium signature at the bottom of the dial confirms the period-correct luminous material, completing a combination that defines the earliest 16550s. Preserved in very good overall condition, this watch captures a short-lived configuration within a short-lived reference. For those who appreciate the nuances of Rolex evolution, early 16550s with ivory rail dials stand apart, not because they were planned that way, but because history made them so.
Condition Report
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3 June - From 10:00 AM to 8:00 PM
GENEVA
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9 May - From 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM
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