Exclusive Timepieces & Jewels 17 –⁠ 18 July 2019 | Monaco

Auction Details

A Selection of Pure Vintage/Contemporary Timepieces and Rare Jewels. Our first auction with Davide Parmegiani.

Session 1 starting at 3 p.m.
Session 2 starting at 6 p.m.

154 Rolex A precious and esteemed Rolex Submariner reference 1680 in stainless steel with date, full set and original invoice

Estimate: € 20,000 –⁠ 40,000

Sold € 32,500

Lot Description

Model: Submariner
Material: Stainless Steel
Reference N°: 1680
Year: 1973
Case N°: 3388278
Caliber: 1570
Movement N°: D542048
Bracelet: leather strap
Dimensions: 40
Signed: Dial, Case and movement
Accessories: Box and papers

The Submariner is among the most iconic — if not The most iconic — timepieces Rolex has ever produced and beyond any doubt one of Rolex’s most coveted models in the history of horology. The first model went into production in 1953 and was launched at the Basel World Fair in 1954 with the references 6204 or 6205. In the following years, other models were presented like the 6538 Big crown or Coroncione, the 5513 and 5512. Around 1965/66, Rolex discontinued use of guilt/silver gilt dials on the Submariner watches, switching to white printing but another important change came with the introduction of the 1680 model in the late 1960s. The 1680 was the first Submariner equipped with a date function, marking the completion of the transition of the Submariner line from specialist tool watch to mass-market fashion accessory. A sporty yet ultra-chic piece for everyday wearing, collectors will make a distinction between a reference 1680 with red writing on the dial and a reference 1680 with all-white writing. Unlike the later-era examples of the reference 1680 Submariner that received matte black dials with all-white text, early production of the reference 1680 received dials that featured the Submariner name printed in red. The reference 1680 Red Submariner is certainly one of the most easily recognizable vintage references and is frequently considered an entry point into serious vintage Rolex collecting. This lot is one of those Red Submariner that you can’t miss: its stainless steel case is nice and well preserved with no evident signs of wearing and the graduated bezel as well is nice. The black matte dial mark IV, in addition to the aforementioned and refined red signature, it also features beautiful bright yellow indexes that form a perfect circumference, the Mercedes hands in the same way are perfectly aged, gaining a considerable charm. The watch is also provided with full set and original invoice of purchase, something absolutely rare when we face a vintage watch coming from 1973 and a further peculiarity that is added to a decidedly desirable piece.