183 Rolex A fascinating, rare and highly attractive, Prisoner of War style, chronograph manual wristwatch in steel, with black glossy dial, reference 3525.

Estimate: € 80.000 –⁠ 160.000

When reflecting on the genesis of Rolex’s chronograph legacy, few references stand as monumentally important as the reference 3525. Introduced in 1938, it was not merely another addition to the brand’s growing catalogue but a landmark innovation—being the very first chronograph wristwatch to be housed within Rolex’s patented waterproof Oyster case. Prior to the 3525, Rolex chronographs relied on traditional snap-back or non-waterproof constructions, a limitation in both durability and practicality. The introduction of a water-resistant screw-down case back and crown into a chronograph configuration was revolutionary and positioned Rolex far ahead of its contemporaries in terms of functional robustness. The 3525 was emblematic of Rolex’s ambition to merge utilitarian engineering with elegant aesthetics, marrying the refined lines of a gentleman’s dress watch with the rugged resilience of a technical instrument. Often regarded by scholars and collectors as a transitional cornerstone between pre-war and post-war Rolex sports watches, the 3525 not only solidified the firm’s chronograph design language but also laid the foundation for the future Daytona lineage. The present example is from the earliest generation of this celebrated reference, easily identified by the case and reference numbers deeply engraved on the case back—later production would move these markings to the space between the lugs. Preserved in excellent condition coming from the Rolex Atelier de Restauration. The Atelier de Restauration represents one of Rolex’s most remarkable, and least visible, commitments to horological excellence. Within its walls, master artisans dedicate themselves to the meticulous preservation of the brand’s historic creations. Every intervention is guided by an almost religious respect for authenticity, ensuring that each component retains its integrity and provenance. The case displays sharp, edges and a dial that retains its original glossy black finish with finely aged gilt graphics and luminous hands. Particularly compelling is its resemblance to the historic 3525 models famously offered to British officers during World War II under Rolex's POW program, many of which bore similarly configured dials. Topping it all off is the original "Patent Oyster" crown, a subtle yet satisfying nod to Rolex’s technical foresight.