A Cartier Fantasy in Monaco

Few names in watchmaking have explored design with the imagination and confidence of Cartier. While other manufacturers have traditionally defined themselves through mechanical innovation, Cartier has built an equally important legacy around design, style and artistic expression. Its watches are instantly recognisable, yet remarkably diverse, encompassing everything from the architectural simplicity of the Tank to the unconventional creations of its London workshops.

For many collectors, the fascination in Cartier lies in the details, be it unusual case designs, rare configurations, historical provenance and the subtle characteristics that distinguish one example from another.

Lot 20 – The Bamboo

Cartier’s fascination with Far Eastern aesthetics influenced its creations throughout the twentieth century, inspiring everything from mystery clocks to elaborate jewellery. The present yellow-gold Tonneau Bamboo, dating to circa 1996, represents a rare reinterpretation of the Bamboo design first explored during the 1970s. Its elongated case transforms the natural contours of bamboo into a distinctive architectural form, blurring the distinction between jewellery and horology. Produced in extremely limited quantities, the Bamboo has become increasingly sought after for its great style and perfectly executed design, with this example retaining its ivory-coloured dial, traditional Roman numerals, blued-steel hands and desirable Paris signature.

Lot 38 – Tank Cintrée in white gold

Introduced in 1921, the Tank Cintrée transformed Cartier’s rectangular Tank into an elongated, curved wristwatch whose proportions remain remarkably modern. This 1950s example is particularly distinguished by its exceptionally uncommon white-gold case and beautifully aged silvered dial, and its original numbered gold deployant clasp. Its slender case follows the natural curvature of the wrist, while hand-painted Roman numerals preserve the elegance of the original design. This particular white gold 1950’s is truly an exceptionally rare and highly collectable example of the iconic Tank Cintrée for its marvelous state of preservation and originality, and white gold case.

Lot 54 - The Pasha “Arab Watch Club”, Roni Madhvani Collection

Created in 2022 exclusively for members of the Arab Watch Club, this exceptional Cartier Pasha represents a striking contemporary interpretation of the iconic design associated with Gérald Genta. Produced in a highly exclusive limited edition of just fifty examples, the watch is distinguished by its captivating burgundy dégradé dial and Arabic calligraphy, introducing a distinctive cultural identity to the familiar Pasha architecture. Its unusual configuration demonstrates Cartier's continuing ability to reinterpret historical designs through contemporary artistic expression. Coming from the Roni Madhvani Collection, this example combines exceptional exclusivity, modern craftsmanship and the distinctive aesthetic sensibility that has defined one of the world's most respected private watch collections.

Lot 55 - The “Cornice” , Roni Madhvani Collection

An extraordinary expression of Cartier's post-war creativity, the present yellow-gold “Cornice” dates to the late 1960s and was produced in France for the American market. Distinguished by its unusual lugless construction, the watch demonstrates Cartier's ability to reinterpret traditional case architecture through unexpected proportions and sculptural design. Believed to be a unique creation, its distinctive silhouette places it among the more imaginative and unconventional Cartier wristwatches of the period. Its provenance from the celebrated Roni Madhvani Collection further enhances the appeal of a watch that perfectly embodies the collector's appreciation for rarity, originality and exceptional design.

Lot 56 - The “Deck Chair”, Roni Madhvani Collection

Few Cartier creations demonstrate the Maison's willingness to challenge conventional watch design quite like the extraordinary “Deck Chair.” Dating to the 1970s, this unique yellow-gold wristwatch is distinguished by its remarkable articulated construction, allowing the case to extend into an unusual architectural configuration. Its playful design reflects the spirit of experimentation that characterised some of Cartier's most imaginative creations during the period, blurring the boundaries between traditional watchmaking, jewellery and mechanical ingenuity. Coming from the Roni Madhvani Collection, the “Deck Chair” represents precisely the kind of unconventional rarity that has long captivated collectors seeking the unexpected.

Lot 57 - The Unique Tank Cartier Paris, Roni Madhvani Collection

The Tank remains perhaps Cartier's most recognisable creation, yet throughout its history the Maison has occasionally departed from its established design to produce exceptional individual interpretations. Dating to the 1960s, this unique yellow-gold Tank Cartier Paris is a remarkable example of that tradition. Its distinctive execution illustrates the freedom with which Cartier approached special creations for discerning clients, transforming one of the most celebrated silhouettes in watchmaking into something considerably more individual. Preserved within the Roni Madhvani Collection, this unusual Tank offers collectors the rare opportunity to acquire a unique interpretation of one of Cartier's most enduring designs.

Lot 70 – Parallelogram London

Originally conceived in 1936, the Parallélogramme, also known as the Asymétrique, remains one of Cartier’s most imaginative designs. Its oblique case and rotated dial created a radically different silhouette, inspired partly by the practical requirements of early motoring. The present yellow-gold example reflects the creative tradition of Cartier London, where Jean-Jacques Cartier encouraged unconventional interpretations of established designs. Its softly contoured case, asymmetrical Roman numerals and cursive Cartier signature distinguish it from the angular original, while the gold deployant clasp bears the JC mark and British hallmarks, further connecting the watch to Cartier’s London production.

Lot 103 – Tank Obus Savonnette

Dating to the 1930s, this yellow-gold Tank Obus Savonnette represents one of Cartier’s more unusual early designs. The Obus takes its name from the French word for projectile or bullet, referring to the distinctive sculpted lugs positioned at the corners of its rectangular case. The Savonnette introduces another element: a hinged gold cover protecting the watch, borrowing from traditional hunter-case pocket watches. This example retains its Cartier France dial, European Watch & Clock movement and French eagle’s head hallmark, demonstrating Cartier’s willingness to experiment with established watchmaking conventions during the Art Deco period.

Lot 118 – Tank Lugless London, John Goldberger Collection

Among the more unconventional creations of Cartier London is the Tank Lugless, a watch that reduces the familiar Tank architecture to its essential elements. Produced circa 1964, this yellow-gold example comes from John Goldberger’s collection and is distinguished by its almost complete absence of traditional lugs. Its rectangular case is complemented by an attractive cream-coloured dial with an evenly aged patina, while the absence of a railway minute track reinforces the minimalist design. London hallmarks, including the date letter corresponding to 1964, place the watch firmly within the celebrated period of experimentation overseen by Jean-Jacques Cartier.

Lot 119 – Tonneau with yellow diamonds

The present Tonneau, dating to the 1990s, offers a striking interpretation of one of Cartier’s earliest wristwatch designs. Its elongated white-gold case is framed by a bezel set with yellow diamonds, while a matching diamond adorns the winding crown. The contrast between white gold and warm yellow stones creates an unusual aesthetic, complemented by a finely guilloché dial and traditional Roman numerals. Rather than overwhelming the design, the gem-setting emphasises the sculptural qualities of the Tonneau, demonstrating Cartier’s ability to combine jewellery craftsmanship with established watchmaking forms.

Lot 130 – Santos with Royal Khanjar dial

This yellow-gold Santos is distinguished by one of the most intriguing signatures found on special-order watches, the Royal Khanjar emblem of Oman. Dating to the 1980s, its white dial replaces the traditional Cartier signature at twelve o’clock with the crossed dagger and crown associated with the Sultanate. This unusual configuration identifies the watch as a special commission connected to the Omani Royal Family. The integrated gold bracelet, applied baton indexes and automatic movement reflect the evolution of the Santos into a luxury sports watch, while the Khanjar dial adds considerable visual ineterst and historical significance.

Lot 131 – Baignoire Allongée London, John Goldberger Collection

Few watches capture the creativity of Cartier London quite like the Baignoire Allongée. This yellow-gold example, dating precisely to 1968 through its London hallmarks, comes from John Goldberger’s collection and displays the exceptionally elongated proportions associated with the model. Measuring 52mm in length, its slender oval case follows the natural curvature of the wrist, while stretched Roman numerals complement its unusual architecture. The case bears the JC hallmark associated with Cartier London, providing an important connection to the workshop responsible for some of the Maison’s most imaginative creations.

Lot 142 – Tank Louis Jumbo

Introduced during the 1970s, the Tank Louis Jumbo reference 17002 occupies a particularly interesting position in Cartier’s history. Its enlarged proportions represented a departure from the traditional Tank Louis, but its most important distinction was mechanical: it was the only automatic version of the classic Tank Louis Cartier. This example is particularly appealing for its white-gold construction and matching bracelet. The automatic movement required a subtly domed case back to accommodate the rotor, distinguishing it from the traditionally flat construction of the model. Produced in relatively small numbers, the Jumbo has become one of the most sought-after vintage Tank variations.

Lot 145 – The Aristide Briand pocket watch

Few watches possess historical associations as compelling as this Cartier pocket watch from circa 1925. Crafted in yellow gold with black lacquer and diamond-set details, it bears an engraving associated with Aristide Briand and the Locarno negotiations of October 1925. Briand was central to diplomatic efforts to secure peace in Europe following the First World War, receiving the Nobel Peace Prize in 1926 alongside Gustav Stresemann. The inscription, dated 15 October 1925, connects the watch to negotiations immediately preceding the signing of the Locarno Treaties. Accompanied by its gold chain and presentation box, it represents a fascinating intersection of Cartier craftsmanship and European diplomatic history.

Lot 146 – Grande Octagonal London, John Goldberger Collection

Produced circa 1970, this yellow-gold Grande Octagonal illustrates the geometric experimentation that defined Cartier London. Its distinctive octagonal case was manufactured by Wright & Davies, the Clerkenwell workshop responsible for many celebrated Cartier designs. The London hallmark confirms its production period, while the case number is repeated on the original gold deployant clasp, an important indication of originality. From John Goldberger’s collection and believed to be appearing at auction for the first time, the watch combines unusual architecture with the craftsmanship associated with Cartier’s New Bond Street operation.

Lot 156 – Tank London in platinum, John Goldberger Collection

Platinum Cartier London watches occupy a particularly interesting niche within vintage collecting, and this Tank from the 1960s is an attractive example. Its restrained rectangular case is complemented by a cream dial, elongated Roman numerals and blued-steel hands. Of particular interest is the absence of platinum assay marks. Compulsory platinum hallmarking was not introduced in Britain until 1973, making unmarked platinum cases consistent with the period. The watch also retains Cartier London inventory numbers, offering an insight into the workshop’s production practices. Another piece from John Goldberger’s collection, it represents a rare interpretation of Cartier’s most enduring design.

Lot 178 – Tank Cintrée London, John Goldberger Collection

This yellow-gold Tank Cintrée, produced in 1975, demonstrates the enduring appeal of Cartier’s elongated rectangular design. Manufactured by Wright & Davies in London, its case bears English hallmarks establishing its production year. The watch retains its original gold deployant clasp, engraved with the same number as the case, providing an important indication of originality. Its curved silhouette and carefully proportioned dial capture the elegance of the original 1921 design, while its London manufacture places it within one of Cartier’s most collectible periods.

Lot 194 – Tank Cintrée Milano Edition

Created in 2024 to celebrate fifty years of Cartier’s boutique at 16 Via Montenapoleone, the Tank Cintrée Milano Edition demonstrates how the Maison continues to reinterpret its historical designs. Crafted in platinum, it features an elongated case, silvered dial and distinctive burgundy numerals at one and six o’clock. These coloured numerals reference both Milan’s heraldic identity and the boutique’s street number. Powered by the ultra-thin manually wound calibre 1917 MC, the watch combines traditional Cintrée proportions with subtle contemporary details, creating an intriguing modern collectible.

Lot 214 – Baignoire London, John Goldberger Collection

Produced circa 1971, this yellow-gold Baignoire offers an interesting insight into the relationship between Cartier’s London and Paris operations. Its case bears British hallmarks alongside French import marks, while the original clasp repeats both sets of markings and carries the corresponding case number. The London date letter confirms its production period, placing the watch within the highly creative years of Cartier London. Beyond its elegant oval proportions, these details provide valuable evidence of the watch’s manufacture and movement between the Maison’s European operations.

Lot 224 – Nain Jaune

Dating to the 1930s, the Nain Jaune represents Cartier’s Art Deco creativity at its most playful. Its unusual star-shaped platinum case takes its nickname from a traditional French board game, while the combination of diamonds and black onyx creates a striking geometric composition. The contrasting materials emphasise the angular projections of the case, transforming the watch into an extraordinary piece of jewellery. Despite its unconventional exterior, the dial retains familiar Cartier characteristics, including Roman numerals, a railway minute track and blued-steel hands.

Lot 225 – Tank Cintrée Réédition

The platinum Tank Cintrée Réédition captures the elegance of Cartier’s earliest curved Tanks through a particularly faithful contemporary interpretation. Limited to 150 examples, this watch is numbered 10 and features an exceptionally slender platinum case measuring just 6.03mm thick. Its eggshell-coloured dial, black Roman numerals and blued-steel Breguet-style hands evoke the original 1920s watches. The manually wound calibre 9780 MC, measuring only 1.85mm thick, allows the case to retain the graceful proportions that define the Cintrée.

Cartier collecting beyond the obvious

Together, these Cartier watches demonstrate the extraordinary breadth of Cartier collecting. From Art Deco jewellery watches and historically significant commissions to the experimental designs of Cartier London coming from the John Goldberger and four remarkable creations from the Roni Madhvani Collection, each reveals a different aspect of the Maison's creative identity. Their importance lies in the details: unusual architecture, rare materials, original components, unique executions and distinguished provenance. Above all, they remind us that Cartier's greatest achievement has always been its remarkable freedom of imagination.

Discover the entire Cartier selection from the catalog here below.